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7 comments:

  1. I have a 4-H'er who showed up with leather. She was very excited about making a skirt and jacket out of it. I have never worked with leather before ....but I couldn't say no to her...this is the first year I've seen her excited about her project. I would be gratful for any advice/website that you could help me with!!!

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  2. Julie,

    I have had a similar experience this year with leather, which is not going along famously. I have never sewn with leather so all is new. She showed up with a very thick upholstery leather—not the “soft and supple” that I see recommended for fashion sewing. Luckily she could take it back for a refund, but we had already done a lot of research on working with leather. She now is going to work with faux leather, which requires different techniques. So the first thing is to find out if you have leather or faux leather.

    Yes, there are leather needles for working with leather and they also recommend using a walking foot or a foot with Teflon. Also, choose a pattern with few styling lines/pieces. Don’t pin—use clips to hold together seams, pattern weights for the cutting out process. ( I have been using casserole lids as my weights this year!) You cannot rip stitches in leather because it will leave holes, so make a muslin and be absolutely sure of the fit before cutting out. Consider top stitching on either side of seams to keep them open, or use a lapped seam method with double stitching.

    I bought a very expensive book that I thought would be very helpful as a resource, and it might have been, but there is pretty good info on the web. You have to sort through the chaff to find it though. This site seemed to have a lot of things that I had found in my original research. Read the comments, too—they help to fill in a few gaps. http://nicolemdesign.blogspot.com/2010/07/how-to-sew-leather-few-tips.html.

    Hopefully, other leaders will read your question and give you some other suggestions.

    Good luck!

    Linda

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    Replies
    1. Hi Julie,
      I have done a lot of sewing on leather, but almost exclusively on deerskin. The only thing I have to add to what Linda said is that I have ripped the stitches out of leather with some success--it depends on where you are stitching. You can rip out a seam and re-sew it, but you end up taking the garment in slightly to hide the holes that were made; essentially you are taking in the garment a small amount. So be sure you have enough fitting ease to allow for this adjustment.

      Be sure to check your bobbin thread frequently to make sure it is not running low, especially when topstitching. When you run out of thread in the bobbin you usually sew an inch or two before you realize you are out of thread. when sewing on leather you will be making holes all the way! Re-sewing and trying to get exactly in the holes you created is a challenge. I have done it with some success even if I did not hit the holes exactly--it won't be perfect, but you might be able to do it with a few holes that only show on very close inspection.

      I sometimes use a rawhide mallet to pound seams flat where they cross another seam and are really bulky and difficult to sew. You will have to do some testing if you need to do this. The trick is to pound just in the seam allowance and not leave any marks on the right side of the leather. I don't have to do this on deerskin because it is so soft, but I have done it on cowhide--it will depend on the weight and drape of your leather.

      Good luck!
      Maureen

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  3. Hello - Just wanted to tell you how much I appreciated your workshop at State Leaders' Forum. It was wonderful - I believe the best workshops I have ever had at State Leaders' Forum.

    I have been wanting to ask questions on your blog but always get hung up at the end where it says to select a profile. I do not profess to be computer literate and I do not know what to do at this point. There is a drop down menu but I still do not know which one to choose.

    My question is that I am a teaching sewing with knits for the first time ever. How do you recommend sewing the seams - straight stitch and then zig zag in the seam extensions or sew the seam with a small zig zag. My machine does have the overcast stitch. Any other suggestions for sewing with knits?

    Thanks so much for all you are doing for 4-H.
    Sharon
    Juniata County

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    Replies
    1. Sharon,

      I did some research. I have published the comment that you sent me, removing your last name. If you want me to change anything about it, let me know. I was doing an experiment and it worked, but I can remove it if you wish!

      For next time, this is what you do: At Select a Profile, Select Comment as Name/URL. Just put your name (first only is fine) in the Name part. Leave URL blank. Publish.

      Again, thank you for your nice comments. We are hoping to be helpful and let leaders know that they have access to help from other leaders throughout the state.

      Good luck with your kids’ sewing projects! (See the separate Sewing with Knits answer.)

      Linda

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    2. Sharon,

      Again, thanks for your note and your nice compliment!

      Thank you also for your “heads up” about being unable to post. You are probably not the only one who had that question. This is what you do: At Select a Profile, Select Comment as Name/URL. Just put your name (first only is fine) in the Name part. Leave URL blank. Publish.

      In the meantime, sewing with knits:

      If you have access to the “Let’s Sew” book by Nancy Zieman (It is out of print but some Extension Offices may still have them in stock.), I refer you to her excellent info which she put together for the 4-H program.

      In a nutshell, she recommends to sew the seam with a straight stitch or a narrow zig-zag. Use a straight stitch for vertical seams, like side seams. Use zigzag for horizontal seams that go across or around the body, so that the seam stretches as the fabric does. Be sure to check to see if the pattern has allowed 1/4 “ or 5/8” seam allowances!

      After you have stitched once, stitch again, sewing ¼” away from the first stitching through both layers of fabric, using a wide zigzag. This will stretch like the fabric does.

      Trim the seam allowance close to the zigzag stitching.

      This method will work with light and medium weight knits. Heavier ones will be too bulky, I would think. Make a small test to be sure you will like the results.

      If you have access to a serger, that would be the first choice for seams in light and medium weight knits. However, not all of us have that, so the above instructions will be fine.

      Another tip-—for shoulder seams, pocket openings, and zipper seams (any seam which will be under stress), you need to plan to stabilize. You can use ¾”strips of fusible interfacing, fuse to the wrong side of the seamline before stitching. Cut ¾” straight grain interfacing for shoulder seams, ¾” bias interfacing for pocket openings, and 1 ¼” straight grain for zipper openings. Or you can use a piece of clear elastic on top of the stitching line as you sew to stabilize the seam yet keep it stretchy.

      The overcast stitch that you have (in the absence of a serger) would be good for the hem turn-up. Do some testing. You may not be able to overcast right at the edge. Instead you may need to stitch with the overcast leaving about 1/8” of seam allowance that would be left on or possibly trimmed after doing the overcast.

      Maureen may have other suggestions.

      Good luck!

      Linda

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    3. Two more thoughts about working with knits:
      1. You should use a ball-point needle which will push the fibers aside rather than pierce them.
      2. Hems in knits are often machine sewn using a double needle. If you do that, you don't need to overcast the turn-up. Rather, press up the hem allowance. Then, using a ball-point double needle, sew the hem with the right side up. The underside will form a kind of overlock-looking stitch. This will simulate the look of ready-to-wear which uses a cover stitch machine. If you have access to one of those, use it! If not, try the double needle idea. Again, make a test to be sure of tension, etc.

      If I think of anything else, I'll be back!

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